Yafteh Rock Climbing Festival

Khorramabad- Iran, May 2013

Yafteh is a massif limestone wall near Khorramabad, a city in Lorestan province of Central Iran. The highest point is 2762 meters from sea level and the wall is more than 8 kilometers long. There are many cliffs and countless routes. It offers many routes some amount to 1000 meters with various technical difficulties. It resembles Bistune Wall in Iran however weather is a bit cooler and the view is nicer.

Festival Activities: Great potential for setting up new routes by different international teams, meeting different rock climbers, forming new teams to climb existing routes or putting up new ones, lots of boulderings and putting up sport routes, base jump and paragliding, introductory rock climbing workshops for beginners, visiting natural and historical attractions of nearby areas.

Yafteh Festival

Yafteh est un massif calcaire proche de Khorramābād, ville de la province du Lorestan au centre de l'Iran. La montagne qui culmine à 2762 mètres, est composée de nombreux murs qui proposent un potentiel de voies jusqu'à 1000 mètres de diverses difficultés. Une dizaine de voies sont équipées, certaines de plus de 500 mètres. Elle a été explorée, à la fin des années 1990 par une équipe de français dont Pascal LAHEUTRE (†) (voir annales du GHM 2000).

History by Lady Climbers

Friday, 25 May 2012 18:09

It is reported, that Iranian lady climber Parvaneh Kazemi (41) ascended Everest and Lhotse in a single season. Everest on May 18th and Lhotse on May 25th, both accompanied by Nima Gyalzen II (26). 28 men did this before, but she is the first woman to do so.

Also she is the first Iranian woman on Lhotse.

Congratulations!

Brazilian born American woman Cleo Weidlich (48) summited Dhaulagiri I today (May 26th) and is now the first woman, who ascended Annapurna I (on April 20th) and Dhaulagiri I in a single season, which was done by ten men before.

Congratulations as well!

News Source:  8000ers.com/cms

Parvaneh is a member of Espilat Mountaineering Club (a member of the
Alpine Club of Iran). She has also climbed Manaslu and Ama Dablam.

Parvaneh was was one of the hosts of  Iranian- American team to Damavand on June 2011.

Iranian lady, Leila Esfandyari fell to her death, while attempting to return back from GII’s summit this noon, July 22^nd.
According to reports, Leila was on summit push with a group of Iranian climbers this morning. A few of them reached the top along with Leila, but in the way back to C3 in a place a bit lower than the summit, she fell.
Iranian climbers are all resting in C3 now. More details are expected for tomorrow.

IMZ News Department
July 22, 2011

Iranian climber, Davoud Rekabi qualified for semifinal round in men’s lead competition at IFSC Championship.
According to IFSC’s official website, Mmen’ lead qualification took place on July 21^st, where 130 climbers competed in two separate groups to enter the second stage. Finally, twenty six climbers from fifteen countries passed with Iranian Davoud Rekabi as 17^th climber. There were also four other Iranian leaders, who placed 69^th, 77^th, 101^st and 109^th. Semifinal round will be executed tomorrow, July 23^rd.

IMZ News Department
July 22, 2011

Arash Mountaineers are approaching C2 on SW face of Mt. Broad-Peak since this morning, July 19.
"They entered C1 last night with heavy loads including mostly technical gears. They left the tents this morning to reach 6500 m, where C2 will set up. The portion of the route between C1 and C2 is a bit dangerous and needs fixing ropes," Kiyoumars Babazadeh reportedly told.
Arash Mountaineers are remotely checked by Kazak star, Denis Urubko in this expedition. Amid preparatory camps, they underwent an eight-day stage in Kazakhstan instructed by Denis last March.

IMZ News Department
July 19, 2011

Iran Exchange Climbers Return!

Southern Appalachian Section Chair David Thoenen just emailed us his complete trip report from the Iran leg of the 2010 – 2011 American Alpine Club / Alpine Club of Iran Climber Exchange. We’ve been posting updates as the AAC team in Iran was able to contact us, but the full report follows (Scroll to the bottom for the Photo Gallery):

Be sure to tune in on Thursday, July 7 for an National Public Radio interview with David Thoenen. He’ll be on NPR’s The Story which you can listen to on your radio or later via podcast (AAC portion starts at 30:30).

Husain Bahmanyar and Mehdi Amidi topped Mt. Lhotse, the fourth highest mountain in the world respectively on May 19^th and 21^st.
These two were members of an international expedition comprised of climbers from Spain, Australia, USA, Britain and Mexico. They reached summit in two parties on last Thursday and Saturday.

IMZ News Department
May 21, 2011

Iran’s mountaineering star Azim Qeychisaz reached summit on Kanchenjunga yesterday, May 20th and put record as the first Iranian to achieve this goal.
"Summit push started from C4 on Thursday at night. He was on Kanchenjunga’s main summit at 6:00 A.m. local time on friday and came back to BC this noon," MSFI reported.
By the way, Azim was climbing together with Mingma Sherpa, who succeeded to finish all fourteen 8000ers and got the title as the first Nepalese. These two climbers were on Nanga-Parbat’s summit last summer too.
Born in 1981 in Tabriz, NW of Iran Azim has already topped Everest (2005), BroadPeak (2008), Dhaulagiri (2010) and Nanga-Parbat (2010).

News Source;
IMZ News Department
May 21, 2011

More than one month after reaching Kanch’s bottom, Azim Qeychi-Saz is now in C4 at 7700 m hoping for summit in coming few days.
"Climbers attempting on Kanchenjunga this season have been settled in C3 and C4. Summits are hoped over May 19th -21nd," Azim told on his call to MSFI.
Despite summits on other 8000ers in Nepal, no summit has been reported this season on Kanchenjunga, the 3rd highest peak in the world.

News Source:
IMZ News Department
May 19, 2011

Iran’s mountaineering star Azim Qeychisaz reached summit on Kanchenjunga yesterday, May 20th and put record as the first Iranian to achieve this goal.
"Summit push started from C4 on Thursday at night. He was on Kanchenjunga’s main summit at 6:00 A.m. local time on friday and came back to BC this noon," MSFI reported.
By the way, Azim was climbing together with Mingma Sherpa, who succeeded to finish all fourteen 8000ers and got the title as the first Nepalese. These two climbers were on Nanga-Parbat’s summit last summer too.
Born in 1981 in Tabriz, NW of Iran Azim has already topped Everest (2005), BroadPeak (2008), Dhaulagiri (2010) and Nanga-Parbat (2010).

News Source:
IMZ News Department
May 21, 2011

The world's first mountaineering club, The Alpine Club of Britain, has made the past 40 years (1969-2008) of its Alpine Journals available online.

According to the Alpine Club, they can be searched by AJ Volume or by Area/Peak. Journals previous to 1969 can be viewed as PDFs. Follow this link.

Since it was founded in 1857 the members of the Alpine Club have been at the leading edge of worldwide mountaineering development and exploration.

From: UIAA site

The Eco Everest Expedition 2011, under the leadership of Dawa Steven Sherpa, is once again undertaking efforts to clean and collect garbage, debris and waste left by past expedition groups. The following report was provided by Dawa Steven's father, Ang Tshering Sherpa, of the Nepal Mountaineering Association, and Asian Trekking:

Having succeeded in the Eco Everest Expedition 2008, 2009 and 2010, the Eco Everest Expedition 2011 is heading on 6th April towards Mt. Everest Base Camp from Kathmandu under the leadership of Dawa Steven Sherpa , the Managing Director of Asian Trekking, Nepal and Apa Sherpa, World Record holder of 20 ascents of Mt. Everest, as a Climbing Leader of the Expedition.

Dawa Steven Sherpa, organizer of Eco Everest Expedition talked about this year’s Eco Everest Expedition. “This Expedition is focused on climbing in an Eco-sensitive manner to keep Everest clean and collect garbage, debris and waste left by past expedition groups. The collected garbage will be brought down to the Base Camp by members of the clean up team for proper disposal. The Eco Expedition would again be using the alternative energy solutions like the parabolic solar cookers, solar lightings and the ultraviolet light pens for water purification,” he said.

Since 2008, the Eco Everest Expeditions have collected and brought off the mountain nearly 12,000 kgs of garbage. Also four died bodies recovered and brought down from the mountain for a dignified burial.

The 96th monthly meeting of Alpine Club of Iran will be on Wednesday, February 16th at Shahriyaran-e-Javan hall in Tehran downtown.
This meeting will start at 5:00 P.M. with mountaineering world news, which will be given by Abbas Sabetian, the president of ACI.
Afterwards, Farnoush Reisi is going to give a detailed reportage about the 4th Ice Climbing Festival of Iran that occurred two weeks ago in Roudbar-e-Qasran region.
The end part of 96th meeting is dedicated to a presentation by Abdol-Azim Berahmani about his attempt on Manaslu during last September and October. He touched C4 at 7400 m on the normal route and returned back home.
Cathy O'dowd, the firse lady who summited Mount Everest from both South and North faces will be the special guest of this meeting, she will be talking about the South Africa's mountain.

Safe Mountaineering Commission will hold backcountry avalanche skills course for climbers and skiers over February 23rd-25th.
"We focus on developing the skills, knowledge and techniques for backcountry users to help them prepare for safe travel in avalanche prone terrain. This course includes theoretical and practical trainings," said commission secretary, Abdollah Ashtari.
Safe Mountaineering Commission established last November under the authority of Mountaineering & Sport Climbing Council of Tehran province.This is the first training course on the theme of Mountain Hazards that SMC holds.

News Source
IMZ News Department
February 10, 2011