خارجی

Iran Exchange Climbers Return!

Iran Exchange Climbers Return!

Southern Appalachian Section Chair David Thoenen just emailed us his complete trip report from the Iran leg of the 2010 – 2011 American Alpine Club / Alpine Club of Iran Climber Exchange. We’ve been posting updates as the AAC team in Iran was able to contact us, but the full report follows (Scroll to the bottom for the Photo Gallery):

Be sure to tune in on Thursday, July 7 for an National Public Radio interview with David Thoenen. He’ll be on NPR’s The Story which you can listen to on your radio or later via podcast (AAC portion starts at 30:30).

Ecrins 2011 affected by dangerous icefalls

Ecrins 2011 affected by dangerous icefalls

ACI's team at Ecrins 2010 Ice Climbing Festival, Ecrins 2011 affected by the condition of icefalls that was getting dangerous due to the warming of weather over Ecrins national park.
"In a four-day period from January 13th, we just climbed 6 pitches on an icefall in "Ciak" valley on the second day. The ice was such dangerous that French guides prevented climbers from ascending just a meter during last two days. Therefore, we moved to Chamonix aiming to summit Mont Blanc, where we were advised to forget about it. Now we are thinking about an ascent on Mt. Aiguille du Midi, but it depends on the meeting we have with local guides," told Mohammad Hajabolfath, member of Iranian team.

IMZ News Department
January 18, 2011

Sudden Death of Chris Pruchnic

Chris, preparing breakfast in GT Climbers ranch-September 2010

Today we received an email from David Thoenen regarding Chris Pruchnic, The news was unbelievable and shocking, regret, Chris died in an accident while Ice Climbing in Rocky Mountain National Park.

Chris was one of the key members of Grand Teton Climbers Ranch team supporting the Iran exchange in September, as well as a member of AAC delegation to Iran.

During our stay in grand Teton Climbers Ranch, chris was almost always in the kitchen preparing food for everyone, we all miss him.

Condolence to his family, to AAC and the mountaineering society.

 

 

FFCAM et Bistoon

 
 

Festival d'escalade de Bisotun

le 29/10/2010

Festival d'escalade de Bisotun

Rencontres iraniennes...

A l’initiative du GHM et du Club Alpin Iranien, un représentant de la FFCAM a participé au Festival d’escalade de Bisotun (Iran) du 17 au 22 octobre, en compagnie de vingt-trois autres grimpeurs. Cela a été l’occasion de découvrir une falaise exceptionnelle de 1200 mètres de haut et de cinq kilomètres de large, faite d’un calcaire d’une adhérence rare. Mais c’était aussi l’occasion unique de rencontres et d’échange avec les grimpeurs iraniens. Cinq nouvelles voies ont été ouvertes à cette occasion, en terrain d’aventure ou sportives, deux sauts de base-jump en wing suit et quelques vols en parapente biplace. Nous avons pu conforter les relations en cours avec le Club Alpin Iranien, très demandeur d’échanges internationaux et avec les représentants gouvernementaux de la montagne qui avait mis "les petits plats dans les grands" pour nous recevoir. Une nouvelle édition est prévue pour 2011. A suivre… Un grand merci à messieurs Ebrahim Notwash et François Bernard pour leur investissement et la réussite de cet événement.
 

 

2010 International Climber's Meet

   

2010 International Climber's Meet


more information about the purpose and history of the event.

We are pleased to announce the schedule for the 2010 ICM to be held in Yosemite, CA:

October 4:
1:00pm - Vans depart from Fresno/ Yosemite International Airport and/or other predetermined location for travel to Yellow Pines campground.
6:00pm - Dinner and welcoming reception.

October 5-9:
Climbing and a session of trail work on one of the days.

October 10
9:00a.m. - Vans depart Yosemite Valley for Fresno. All climbers must vacate Yellow Pines campground by 10:00am

The registration fee for the event is $200. Climbers are responsible for travel expenses to and from Fresno/ Yosemite International Airport. Meals will be provided during the stay at Yosemite Valley.

WE WILL BE CAMPING. Please review the gear lists below.

2010Climber Exchange with the Alpine Club of Iran

Climber Exchange AAC and ACI climbing delegations at the Climbers'

Ranch, Grand Teton National Park, WY. Photo

courtesy of Greg Von Doersten Photography.

Three a.m., September 3. Two white vans roll past bugling elk and Jim Donini’s camper. They stop in the parking lot of the AAC Grand Teton Climbers Ranch. Nine Alpine Club of Iran delegates have traveled over fifty (essentially non-stop) hours from Tehran to Jackson Hole. The Iranian climbers with their two Iranian-American escorts peel themselves out of their seats and exit the vans. AAC hosts Donini, David Thoenen, and Bo White greet their guests and help them lug their duffels to the Ortenburger cabin. After two years of joint planning, the AAC/ACI Climbers Exchange is underway.

What transpires over the following ten days is pure alpine magic, proof positive of the brotherhood of the rope. By September 12, departure day for our Iranian guests, any notion of borders or differences has evaporated. Strong ties of commonality and friendship emerged early in the event and had grown stronger as the days, miles hiked and pitches climbed passed by. In the end, we, Iranian and American, have established a dramatic sense of community and a unanimous commitment to continuing and enhancing the partnership between the AAC and the ACI.

Jackson Peak.

On the summit of

Jackson Peak. Photo courtesy of Tom Bowker

UIAA responds to Everest age restrictions

International Award for Neville McMillan

Neville McMillan - Chairman of the BMC Technical Committee for 17 years - has been presented with an Award for Contributions to International Mountaineering.

At this year’s UIAA Safety Commission meeting in Longarone, Italy, Neville formally ended his role as UK National Delegate, after 23 years. He had half expected some acknowledgement of this during the four-day meeting, but he was very surprised by what actually happened - at an evening public meeting for Safety Commission members, local guides, and mountain rescue teams, he was formally presented with a framed award from the UIAA for his “Contributions to International Mountaineering”, by the President, Mike Mortimer, and the Executive Board Member, Silvio Calvi.

Commenting afterwards Neville said:I really was gob-smacked when it was presented to me at a public meeting in Italy. When I started rock climbing at the age of 42, with an introductory climbing course at PyB, I never thought I'd end up with an international award!"

Neville was Chairman of the BMC Technical Committee for 17 years, from 1987 onwards, when gear was not as reliable as it is now. As UK Delegate to the UIAA Safety Commission, he was instrumental in ensuring that BMC research into gear failures was fed into the UIAA Safety Standards, and also into the first European standards (EN) for mountaineering safety equipment, which all safety gear sold throughout the EC has had to comply with since 1998.

"Koreans or Catalonians?", Ehsan thinks to join on a shot to the summit

Ehsan Partovi-Nia should choose one of Korean or Catalonian teams to join for for non-individual summit push in few coming days in few coming days.
"Descending from C3, Ehsan has arrived BC on 16:00 local time on Tuesday, April 13th for a few days of rest before summit push. During last two days, he had two invitations from Catalonian and Korean teams to join for the summit push together. He has postponed his final decision to the time Koreans come back from acclimatization process in C2," his friend, Amir Moghimi told.
According to weather forecasts, bad weather is so probable for Annapurna region from tomorrow on for 4 days.

News Source
IMZ News Department

AAC Climber Exchange with the Alpine Club of Iran

The AAC will host a delegation of ACI members at the Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch from June 24 to July 4, 2010. The Alpine Club of Iran plans to reciprocate in late September, 2010, by hosting a delegation of ten members of the AAC in Iran. While the focus of the exchanges will be climbing, the delegations will also engage in discussion of alpine conservation issues and programs.

The Iranian delegation will be made up of ACI members who represent a broad spectrum of age, gender, climbing interests and skills. The AAC intends to match the Iranian participants with compatible AAC host climbers. AAC host climbers should be familiar with the Teton Range and will be responsible for their own expenses at the Climbers' Ranch. Any AAC member interested in volunteering to partner with our Iranian guests should email us for more information.

The AAC is also accepting applications from its members for the AAC to Iran portion of the exchange. Iran offers a rich variety of climbing opportunities, including alpine mountaineering, high quality cragging, and big wall climbing. Iran is also a fascinating country to visit: rich in history, varied in cultures, and world class in hospitality. AAC delegates will be responsible for the airfare from their home to Tehran. The ACI will cover AAC participants' lodging, food, and transportation expenses in Iran.

Scientists are calling for Arctic multilateral governance

Damocles scientist declaration

Michel Rocard, French ambassador for the poles, Manuela Soares, European Commission DG Research Director, and Jean-Claude Gascard, Scientific coordinator of Damocles, at the oppening of the Damocles symposium, 10 november 2009. (Credit : Damocles)

November 2009

120 scientists are calling for Arctic multilateral governance

Participating to the Damocles international symposium, The Arctic Climate system, its present status, future evolution and potential impacts on November 10-12, 2009 in Brussels, Belgium, 120 scientists from Russia, Sweden, Germany, England, France… called, through a joint declaration, for arctic multilateral governance.

UIAA and Tyrol declaration

The UIAA General Assembly on Saturday approved a code to serve as a beacon of mountaineering values, spelling out ethics of sportsmanship, respect for cultures and care for the environment.
The assembly named the document the UIAA Mountain Ethics Declaration. The governing body met for its annual gathering October 8-11 in Porto, Portugal.
 
Doug Scott, the famed British mountaineer who achieved the seven summits, worked diligently on the document. He hopes it will guide alpinists well.
 
“The Mountain Ethics Declaration, the updated statement on best practices in mountaineering, is very timely,” Scott said, “especially to help those climbers in areas where there is no strong consensus of opinion as to the best way forward.”
 
The declaration addresses mountaineering issues such as the responsibility to assist others in need, the factual reporting of ascents and the use of supplementary oxygen in high altitude climbs.
 
It also has a rich history:
 
The document builds upon work of American climbers and the UIAA Mountaineering Commission, called the Mountain Code. That code was updated and approved at an international meeting of leading climbers in Innsbruck, Austria in 2002. The resulting document from that gathering was called the Tyrol Declaration.
 

Iranians will participate in The UIAA General Assembly 2009

Iranians will participate in The UIAA General Assembly 2009

The UIAA General Assembly 2009

The UIAA General Assembly, which is held annually in one of member countries, will be carried out from October 6th to 11th in Porto, Portugal.
According to Portuguese organizer, a symposium entitled "Mountains: Today and Tomorrow" is considered as the opening program of this meeting, which will be held in "Peneda" national Park.
The remaining days of this event will be dedicated to sessions of management committee, general assembly and commission presidents with UIAA president. Also enthusiastic participants will give lectures in celebration of The UIAA Tyrol Declaration on Friday, 9th of October.
Reported by Iran’s Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation’s official Website, Mahmoud Shoaei, the president along with Mikaeil Morovati, Reza Zareei and Homayoun Bakhtiari will join this meeting as Iran’s mountaineering representatives.

 

News Source
IMZ News Department
October 2, 2009

Abbas Jafari has gone missing in Nepal

Abbas Jafari has gone missing in Nepal


The famous Iranian adventure Journalist, Abbas Jafari has gone missing after his kayak capsized in Trishuli River in Nepal on Monday, September 7th.
According to IREN, Abbas was at rafting in Trishuli River, when suddenly his boat upset in a region known as Mugling-Narayanghat. Since then, his wife Farkhondeh Sadegh along with a search and rescue team and local guides are seeking for Abbas. Up to now, they have just found out a boat, which might be pertaining to Jafari.
Born in 1962 in Mashad city in North-East of Iran, Abbas is well-known for his several travels all over the country as a tourism guide besides composing many adventurous articles in Iranian Journals like "Hunt & Nature" and "Travel" magazines. Also his articles about Iran’s wilderness have been published in a few foreign magazines such as "National Geographic".

ایرانیان بر فراز اورست




روز ۲۰ آوریل ۲۰۰۹ یا ۳۰ اردیبهشت  ۱۳۸۸، دو کوه‌نورد ایرانی، نیما یزدی‌پور و عارف گرانمایه موفق شدند از مسیر شمالی، کوه اورست را صعود کنند.

این اولین بار است که ایرانیان قله اورست را از مسیر شمالی صعود می‌کنند.

نیما یزدی‌پور و عارف گرانمایه از اعضای تیم Summit Climb بودند و به همراه آلن، هرو، راب و ۵ شرپا به نام‌های یانگ‌جن، یانگ‌بو، لاکپا، پاسانگ و لُپ‌شانگ پا بر روی قله اورست نهادند.

ایرانیان ۱۱ سال پیش درست در همین روز یعنی ۳۰ اردیبهشت برای نخستین بار موفق به صعود اورست شدند.

انجمن کوه‌نوردان ایران این موفقیت را به نیما یزدی‌پور و عارف گرانمایه تبریک میگوید.


تمامی حقوق این سایت متعلق به انجمن کوه نوردان ایران می باشد. استفاده از مطالب این سایت با ذکرمنبع مانعی ندارد.
© 2010-2012 Iran Alpine Club all rights reserved.

Web Design by Parsian CMS, Web Hosting by Parsian Networks 2004-2012 طراحی وب با استفاده از مدیریت محتوا شبکه پارسیان, دامنه و هاستینگ توسط شبکه پارسیان 2004-2012